The Gartnerin

After a wonderful week and a half exploring Spain, it was time to say goodbye. On Wednesday, May 8th, we packed up our stuffs and headed to the airport for our 5:55 AM flight. Our host pre-booked a taxi for us, and the trip cost around €36.

Spain left us with incredible memories, but we were also buzzing with excitement for our next adventure. Buongiorno, Italy!

We flew with RyanAir, and it took 2.5 hours to touch down Bologna. It’s a small and peaceful city. We love it that there’s not a huge touristy vibe (of course we are aware that we are tourists ourselves). We stayed right in the center.

Behind the bustling city square lies charming alleys teeming with life. Here, you’ll find a delightful array of shops: some showcasing cured meats and cheeses like jamón, olives and local favorites. Others bursting with fresh, colorful displays of handmade pasta and seasonal fruits and vegetables. Bookstores and gourmet shops add to the vibrant mix.

As evening descends, restaurants and wine bars open their doors, setting out intimate tables and chairs perfect for groups of friends gathering over after-work drinks.

Bologna is super pedestrians friendly! Here, covered walkways weave through the city, connecting buildings and pedestrian paths with a network of dome-shaped arcades. This clever design allows you to explore most of the city on foot, sheltered from the elements.

In keeping with this theme, we opted to ditch public transportation altogether. Bologna’s renowned culinary scene was our true focus, and we embraced the opportunity to walk off all those delicious meals!

Wonderful, delightful, flavorful food landscape of Bologna.

Forno Brisa: Our first spot to grab coffee. Although it’s not necessarily our most favorite, it’s not bad either. All the guest lined up to get to-go drinks and only locals sat around us during that time.

Sfoglia Rina: All the way to the top! Our first day in Bologna started on a high note at Sfoglia Rina! We arrived a little early for lunch while waiting to check-in in our Air Bnb, that’s how we snagged a table without a wait. (I was so smitten that I returned two days in a row later, hoping to try another dish, but no bite)

The fresh, handmade pasta was truly something special. My husband had the ragù Bolognese, and my ravioli on weekly menu was absolutely out of this world. I wouldn’t be surprised if I shed a happy tear the next time I taste their pasta. 

They even have fresh pasta available for purchase.

We swung by the place one last time before leaving Bologna, hoping to snag another meal. Bummer, they weren’t serving lunch yet. Settled for espresso and cake instead.

Cremeria Santo Stefano: Exceptional gelato.

Le moline – Osteria Bistrot: the food is alright but nothing special, given we have a lot of great other options around Bologna. Osteria dell’Orsa: We only tried their signature tortellini in soup, would give other dishes a try if there’s another chance.

Caffè Terzi Bologna: Great coffee and very reasonable price!

La Salsamenteria Bologna: While it’s on the pricier side, the dishes we had were legit. Just a heads-up that, like most restaurants in Italian cities, a cover charge (coperto) is typically added per person (around €1-€2) and will be listed on the menu.

Il Gelatauro: In my opinion, they have decent gelato, but there was one thing that bugged me. It seemed like the tempt was a bit off with frost creeping up on the display glass. That might made the gelato a bit softer than other places.

Castiglione Pizza e Cucina: We stumbled upon this place, and let me tell you, it was a lucky find! We ordered the Diavoletta rossa, and it was absolutely delicious. The only surprise was that it was around 8 pm and the place was pretty empty.

Cremeria Cavoli: Yes, we’ve been on a gelato quest throughout Spain and Italy, and this place definitely ranks high on our list. Their dark chocolate and mango flavors were divine. The staff here were fantastic, especially a young lady who radiated enthusiasm and clearly loved her job. 

There wasn’t a day in a trip we went without local fruit. Found this crazy-good fruit called a loquat at the grocery store – super juicy and sweet with a bit of a tang. Kind of like a mix between a plum and a mango, very refreshing.

Naama Cafe gets a thumbs up from me! They have a great selection of delicious coffee and sweets. It feels like a family-run place with a cool, oriental vibe.

What to see in Bologna (aside from those wonderful gelato places)

Santo Stefano Complex: seven churches, each built in a different era and nestled together in one area. I noticed the very weathered unadorned brick wall, worn interiors, altars and sculptures.

Basilica di San Paolo Maggiore: a Baroque style church. The main altar features a dramatic marble sculptural group  Beheading of St Paul  while the facade and vault’s magnificent frescoes depict scenes from the life of St Paul. Read here for a deeper dive.

Santuario della Beata Vergine di San Luca: (The Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca) is a beautiful basilica church located up a hill Southwest of Bologna. It sits at a height of generally 300 meters above the city. It took us a sweet one hour and a half hiking thru 3.8 km portico started from Porta Saragozza (Portico di San Luca, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Don’t forget to bring a water bottle to stay hydrated during your climb!

The portico outside Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio:

Basilica di San Petrinio: anchors the bustling Piazza Maggiore, Bologna’s main square. The space is characterized by clean lines and a minimalist aesthetic.

However, outside of the church, a constant stream of pedestrians flows by, on their way to work, errands, or simply enjoying the vibrant atmosphere. Like many others, we found ourselves drawn to the church’s grand staircase, a perfect spot for people-watching. Here, amidst the peaceful crowd, we soaked in the scene where the sky in vibrant hues, the clock tower adorned with its illuminated decorations. Right before catching the train to leave for Firenze, we returned for a final visit to this spot, lingered a moment longer, soaking it all in. A pang of wanderlust struck – would we ever return to witness this view again? The vastness of time and the endless possibilities it held stirred a deep emotion within me.