The Gartnerin

We arrived in Madrid at the end of April. Right after getting our checked luggages, we came to pick up our Madrid card within the airport which is quite convenient. While the Madrid Card offered a cost-effective way to get around, we opted for an Uber ride to our AirBnb to avoid unnecessary hassle.

We stayed in Tetuán neighborhood. It was a financial district with a walkable distance to the Metro station, supermarkets, and local restaurants. The neighborhood itself felt safe and quiet.

One of the most interesting things I encountered during our stay in Madrid (and Rome) was the unique way local apartments utilized space. While some might describe it as “hoarding,” these homes embraced a curated chaos that was both characterful and strangely comforting. There was a certain charm in the imperfections, a sense that these homes were loved and lived in.

What to do:

The city buzzed with life, museums, charming squares lined with inviting terraces, and a pedestrian-friendly atmosphere that encouraged exploration on foot. I personally fell in love with Chueca and Salamanca for their distinct vibes. You can easily spot the rainbow flag, a symbol of the LGBTQIA+ community, displayed proudly in windows and storefronts. As you wander the streets, you might even encounter a group of artists taking a smoke break outside their studios, with colorful stains on their aprons, adding to the fun and lively atmosphere.

We spent our first day and a half catching up with friends, followed by a day trip to Toledo. The rest of our time was dedicated to exploring Madrid’s diverse neighborhoods and the amazing museums along with the beautiful churches.

1. “The Art walk” (Paseo del Arte)– Paseo Del Arte Pass cost €64 for two in 2024

For art enthusiasts, the Paseo del Arte is a must-see. I have to book a timed visit schedule in advance. This helps control visitor capacity and ensures a more enjoyable experience.

The Prado offers free admission on certain days of the week, but be prepared to wait in line for these free tickets. Planning Tip: When making your travel itinerary, keep in mind that many museums and attractions in Madrid are closed on May 1st. Even though we were aware beforehand, we were still disappointed to miss the Museo Reina Sofía and only had a limited time at the Thyssen-Bornemisza. Luckily, we had a fantastic time at the Museo Nacional del Prado. Make sure to allocate enough time for each museum you plan to visit. In my experience, you’ll easily need at least 3 hours for a comprehensive visit to the Prado’s vast collection.

Audio guides were available at each museum for €10. While they can certainly enhance your appreciation of the artwork,they may not be for everyone. Personally, I found that the audio guide sometimes disrupted my own exploration and desired route through the museum, as it focused on a specific set of works.

My favorite artists and their works:

2. Enjoy the Parque de El Retiro greenery

3. Check out Plaza Mayor

4. Exhibition: If you’re into interactive exhibition, check out Espacio Fundación Telefónica . They offer free admission entrance.

3. Churches:

Where to eat:

While we encountered a few restaurants that didn’t quite impress us, Madrid’s food scene also presented some delightful surprises. Here are a few of our favorites:

1. Celso Y Manolo: This gem captured our hearts so much that we returned twice in two days! We highly recommend the “Cata De 4 Tomates dulces de lola y 4 aceite” (Four sweet tomatoes with olive oil), “Chuletón De Tomate con 6 cosas ricas” (tomato steak), and “Entrecot De Tomate” (another tomato steak) – a must-try!  (No I don’t speak Spanish, I just happened to have the menu photo on my phone). Their risotto, seafood dishes and Calamari (very popular in every restaurant in Madrid) are also really good and fresh.

1. Lamucca: They offer a wide range of options from light bites to main courses. Don’t miss their desserts – the homemade gelato and tiramisu were truly delightful. They have several locations throughout Madrid, but we sat at Lamucca de Pez
2. Le petit Bistro: Amazing authentic dishes with cute interior setting.
3. Mercado de SanMiguel: Always packed, you can join the fun with variety of options from fresh calamari, smoothies, jamon or just simply a beer.
4. The neighbor hood in Plaza de Olavide: Lined with outdoor tables, this neighborhood offers a relaxed setting for enjoying a meal or a light snack.

A valuable tip we learned – when dining out in Madrid, ask for “un vaso de agua” (a glass of water) instead of just “agua” (water). This ensures you’ll be served free tap water instead of bottled water. Tap water in the European is perfectly safe to drink, so you can save some money and be environmentally friendly. We only discovered this thanks to my husband, whose language skills came in handy!

Coffee places:

1. The fix: This was the last coffee shop we tried in Madrid and yet our most favorite here. Their mango cheese cake is top notch.
2. Cafeteando: A charming little coffee shop perfect for a quick pick-me-up.
3. Rocablanca: This lively beer and snack bar offered a fun and casual atmosphere. While seating might be limited, it’s a great place to grab a drink and some bites with friends.
4. Financial Club Genova: A decent rooftop bar with great view.
5. Botánica: Really stylish coffee/plant shop near by Paseo del Prado.

1. Gioelia Cremería Madrid: Good ice cream
2. Pétana CR7 Hotel: We popped into the CR7 Café, located within Cristiano Ronaldo’s hotel. If the weather permits, take a ride up the elevator to the rooftop for the views of the Sol neighborhood.

On a side note, while shopping at Aldi, my husband pointed out this: In countries with dairy subsidies, you can find incredible deals on milk! 6 x 1.5L bottles of milk for just €1.78!

Day trip to Toledo

We opted for a self-guided day trip to Toledo by train. It’s a charming historic city located near Madrid. The train journey was convenient and fast, and I highly recommend planning your return trip in advance. Our initial plan was to arrive in Toledo around 10:00 AM and depart by 8:30 PM, allowing ample time for exploration. However, by 5:00 PM, we realized we were feeling a bit weary and had covered most of the places on our list. Unfortunately, we discovered that train tickets on the Renfe website couldn’t be changed, and the ticket office was sold out for earlier departures. This resulted in us spending more time in Toledo than originally planned.

What to do in Toledo:

The Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo: Entrance fee is €12 each. The level of detail of this Gothic Church built  between 1226 and 1493 is simply stunning. The aesthetics and sophistication are mind-blowing. Again, I would recommend asking for audio guide at the ticket booth.

Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes (Entrance fee is €3 ea). It’s an Isabelline style (Isabelline Gothic) church.

Curious about the carved stone figures surrounding the lower cloister garden, I looked them up while writing this. Unlike grotesques, which are purely decorative, gargoyles serve a dual purpose: they’re both carved stone figures, but gargoyles also function as waterspouts, channeling rainwater away from the building. Fascinating, isn’t it?

Food and coffee in Toledo:

We grabbed lunch at a very local spot called Taberna Skala. While the signature dishes were too salty for my taste, the place was clearly a favorite – we waited in line before opening and it quickly filled up!

Il’ Cappuccino: There’s a to-go coffee spot Il’ Cappuccino that we really like. This was our first cortado in the EU, and it was a delightful introduction. The owner, a Specialty Coffee Association certified barista, made it looked easy (which apparently not)! He loves his job, I can tell!

La Taberna de Kache– While hovering around Toledo train station area waiting for our train, we stumble upon this humble place. The manager/cook there who was single-handedly managing the entire place during our visit, was incredibly welcoming. He juggled preparing food and serving drinks for all the guestsand he was very nice to us.

Taberna Embrujo: We ducked into Taberna Embrujo for a peaceful break during our day trip to Toledo. This charming spot offered quiet tranquility and fair prices for a midday lunch.