The Gartnerin

We bid farewell to the bustling streets of Madrid and set off for Granada by train. Our Uber ride to the train station was convenient. The Renfe train journey itself took about 4.5 hours, costing €78 per person, with a connection in Córdoba where we switched trains for Granada.

We fell in love with this charming, less touristy city. We stayed in a studio apt located right across from the lively Plaza Nueva de Granada, offering views of the bustling pedestrian street from our window.

Despite our short stay, we managed to pack in a lot of sightseeing and explore some fantastic restaurants as you will see below.

Where to eat and drink:

Bodegas Castañeda: This was the first spot we tried when arriving at Granada. The place is obviously popular with many guests happily enjoying their tapas while standing. We got a set menu, which was not bad, but be aware that the portions are quite big if you travel on your own or as a couple (and it’s a bit salty!). 

Abaco Te: We stumble upon this peaceful hidden gem with a stunning view! Great prices & tranquility – deserves more love!

We fell in love with Granada’s endless cobblestone stairways winding uphill. As we wander these charming, hilly alleys, we often stop to enjoy the view of the small city- worth the climb! Plus, it’s perfectly safe to explore even in the evening. During our weekend stay in Granada, the city came alive with the vibrant energy of flamenco. We saw people dressed in traditional flamenco attire – flowing dresses and red flower hairpieces – either heading to city square for a public dance event or to attend a flamenco show.

Ice cream at Helados la Perla: This place has been around for a while and their ice cream are all great, especially dark chocolate and passion fruit (maracuyá).

Pimienta Rosa: We stumbled upon this restaurant with a 4.7-star rating on Google Reviews and decided to give it a try. The food was delicious,but on the pricier side. It costs around 60 euros for two of us.

Ysla cafe: It’s more like a chain, with variety of pastries, sweets, and cakes. We tried the traditional pionono for the first time and tiramisu – both were absolutely delicious!

La Finca Coffee: Easily one of the best coffees we had on our trip. Small place but intimate.

Cafe Bar Mirador De La Lona: This small local restaurant in the gorgeous Albaicin Quarter was a fantastic find. We loved it so much, we returned the next day for one last meal before leaving Granada. The owner, an older gentleman, runs the entire show – setting tables, taking orders,managing the juice bar, and even cooking! It was truly inspiring to see someone his age working with such passion. The food was delicious and reasonably priced, and the young man who helped with orders was friendly and spoke excellent English.

Restaurante Carmen El Agua: It was a truly special dining experience. While a bit pricey, it was absolutely worth it! We made reservations in advance to secure a table on the terrace, and the view of the Alhambra was stunning and romantic. 

Perspective cafe: We had coffee here on our way to Granada Charterhouse. Cortado all the way.

What to do in Granada:

We bought a combo ticket (€40 for 2) on the official website to reserve our spots and avoid lines at Granada’s attractions. We visited the Cathedral, Royal Chapel, San Jerónimo Monastery, and San Nicolás Church + Tower (audio guides included).

Iglesia de Santo Domingo: The church construction began in 1512 with a Gothic style, but it was completed throughout the Renaissance, Baroque, and Contemporary eras by various artists.

Catedral de Granada (Granada Cathedral): Foundations for the church were laid in the Gothic style by Enrique Egas, who also oversaw construction of the Royal Chapel. The project spanned over 181 years and involved various architects. This resulted in a fascinating blend of styles, with a Renaissance dome crowning a Gothic floor plan.

Just a note to myself: Church architecture terms.

Royal Chapel of Granada: The Isabelline-style building serves as the burial place for Spanish monarchs Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand. The interior echoes the design of the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes in Toledo. No photo allowed inside the Chapel.

Cuesta de Gomerez: The path leading up to the Alhambra. This uphill walk was a delight – the comfortable, smooth incline was shaded by lush greenery, and the small watercourses lining the street.

Granada Charter house: This stunning impressive Spanish Baroque Carthusian monastery was once home to a community of monks, and its construction spanned a remarkable 300 years. More information.

Alhambra: We booked a guided tour to Alhambra & Nasrid Palaces because we weren’t able to find any available ticket on their official site. At $282 for two adults, the 3-hour tour included entrance to the Alhambra, Nasrid Palaces, and Generalife. While some visitors tried (unsuccessfully) for tickets at the door, a self-guided tour would be perfect if you can plan ahead! Tip: Be sure to bring your ID – it will be checked at the Alhambra security gates (there are four throughout the tour complex).

The Alhambra’s intricate details, scale and the craftsmanship were undeniably impressive. However, the use of numerous slender pillars and small patterned holes (designed to cool the space naturally) created a slightly unconfortable feeling for me. Look closer you can read the repeated inscription “There is no victory but Allah” decorates the walls and domes, adding a unique layer of cultural significance.

On the other hand, I had a great walk in the Generalife. The beautifully designed gardens, with their charming fountains, created a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere.